Rummaniya This is my adaptation of an Arab recipe that appeared in a Mesopotamian royal cookbook from the early 13th century, though it also showed up in earlier cookbooks. The original recipe specified no ingredient amounts or cooking times, so this is a rough estimate. However, the following ingredients are mostly the same — except for the squash. The original recipe called for gourds, which could not have been squash because they hadn't been introduced yet from the Americas, although the book's authors believe it was a closely related vegetable. — Maxime Rodinson 2¼ pounds boneless lamb shoulder, trimmed and cut into medium dice 5 tablespoons kosher salt + salt to taste 2 onions, peeled and chopped 1 pound eggplant, peeled and quartered lengthwise 1 tablespoon whole coriander seeds 1/2 tablespoon whole cumin seeds 1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns 1 cinnamon stick 1 small butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cut into large dice 1 bunch Swiss chard, washed and cut into thick ribbons Leaves from 5 sprigs of mint, or as desired 2 garlic cloves, minced 1/2 cup pomegranate juice, or to taste (see note) Put the meat in a large stockpot with 2 tablespoons of the salt and cover with water. Gently bring to a simmer, skimming the scum that rises to the top. Simmer for 10 minutes, then skim again. Add the onions, increase heat slightly and simmer gently for 1 hour and 15 minutes, until very tender, skimming occasionally. Meanwhile, put the eggplant in a large bowl with the remaining 3 tablespoons salt. Cover completely with water, then weight down with a heavy plate to keep submerged. Let sit for 1 hour. Drain and rinse. Chop the eggplant wedges into 2-inch hunks. Combine the coriander, cumin, peppercorns and cinnamon stick in a heavy skillet and toast over medium-low heat until fragrant and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes, shaking the skillet from time to time. Using a spice grinder or coffee grinder reserved for spices, grind the whole spices to a fine powder. When the meat is tender, add the squash and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, until tender. Add the eggplant, Swiss chard and spices and cook for 8 to 10 minutes. Cover the pot, if necessary, to help the vegetables cook without adding extra liquid. Add the mint, garlic and pomegranate juice. Taste the stew. Season with salt. If it needs a bit more sweet-tart flavor, add more pomegranate juice. Serve with flat bread. If you want a thicker stew, set over very low heat, uncovered, for about 1 hour. Serves 8 to 10. Note: Fresh pomegranate juice is available at most farmers' markets in the Fall. Or substitute 3 to 4 tablespoons (or to taste) pomegranate molasses, which is available at Middle Eastern grocers. From "Medieval Arab Cookery" by Maxime Rodinson, A.J. Arberry and Charles Perry middle eastern recipe index christina m k al-sudairy buy the book!